The 11 Most Innovative Watches Presented at Watches & Wonders 2025
In 2025, the annual watchmaking event showcased impressive new developments: an entirely new Rolex, the most complex wristwatch ever created, components capable of withstanding impacts of 10,000 g, and an innovative "magic ceramic."
This week, the tariffs imposed by President Donald Trump surprised the watch industry during the Watches & Wonders exhibition in Geneva, where major brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, and Cartier gathered. This measure entails a 31% import tax on the primary market for Swiss watchmaking, which is concerning given that the United States represented one-sixth of the global market for Swiss watches in 2024, and the industry was already facing a significant decline. The high-level executives present at the exhibition preferred not to comment on this issue.
Despite the complex economic situation, the new collections presented at the fair showcased creative proposals and innovative designs. Here are some of the highlights:
Rolex Land-Dweller
The Rolex Land-Dweller embraces a modern aesthetic with an integrated bracelet design, evoking the style of the 1970s and the OysterQuartz. Its movement, the Caliber 7135, replaces the traditional escapement with a construction called “Dynapulse,” using silicon parts to improve precision and stability. This new model is available in steel with a white gold, rose gold, or platinum bezel, with size options of 36 mm and 40 mm, starting at $13,900.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria
Considered the world’s most complicated wristwatch, Vacheron Constantin’s “Solaria” features 41 complications, including chiming and chronograph functions, and can calculate the visibility time of constellations. Its design took eight years, and while there are no price details available, it is expected to reach millions.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
TAG Heuer has revived its plastic watch from the 80s, now in a solar, expanded, and improved version made with bioplastic materials. Available in steel models with plastic bezels and various colorful plastic editions, with prices starting at $1,800.
IWC Big Pilot’s Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL
Designed to withstand severe impacts, the Shock Absorber employs a mix of ceramic and titanium. This model features a skeletal tourbillon designed to enhance precision, with a price of $210,600.
Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Tudor expands its diving options with the Pelagos Ultra, which is resistant to depths of up to 1,000 meters. With a new 43 mm titanium size and a quick-adjust system on the strap, it is offered at $5,950.
Patek Philippe 6159G Perpetual Calendar
This classic model has been updated with a semi-transparent dark gray dial that showcases the internal movement, priced at $117,000.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA
The Spring Drive technology has been updated with a model that provides a precision of +/-20 seconds per year, a notable improvement over its predecessors, presented as an elegant addition to the Evolution 9 collection, starting at $10,900.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic
This model combines ceramics in various tones, representing a challenge in manufacturing. Limited to 20 pieces, its price is $33,000.
Ulysse Nardin Diver AIR
Weighing just 52 grams, this watch is the lightest diving watch, made from a blend of titanium and carbon fiber, and offers water resistance up to 200 meters. Priced at $38,000.
Bovet Récital 30
This watch faces the challenge of adjusting daylight saving time zones with an innovative system that allows for quick modifications. Its price has not yet been defined, but it will be more accessible than its predecessor.
Oris Big Crown Diamonds
The Big Crown is a classic from Oris, enhanced with a design that includes lab-grown diamond hour markers, priced at £2,500/$3,220.